![]() I use a wheel-style marking gauge to set the distance from the cheek of the tenon to mark out for the corresponding mortises. This ensures that if I'm slightly off-center, I still get square intersections between pieces. I gang both rails and corresponding muntins together and mark all the way across the pieces. A little measuring is required to locate the mortises for the muntins. The tenons themselves help locate the length of the mortises. A wheel marking gauge is quick to set up to define the width of the mortises. With the tenons formed and cope cuts made on the ends of the rails and muntins, it's time to lay out the mortises. This height will vary depending on the thickness of the sash material. With the fence set, I can set the blade height to cut the tenons. Setting up the dado set at the table saw to make 1" tenons. For my window, the vertical muntin is 22". To figure out the length of the vertical muntins follow the same procedure you did to figure out the length of your rails. In a divided light window the horizontal muntins are the same length as the rails. This leaves a rail with a 1" tenon on each end. Rail Length = 18" total sash width minus the combined width of the two stiles (2-1/4 x 2 = 4-1/2"), adding the width of the profile twice (1/4" x 2 = 1/2"), and adding the length of the tenon twice (1" +1" = 2"), which equals 16". The rails, being shorter, require a little math: ![]() ![]() The length of the vertical stiles is easy to figure as they run the full height of the window. The muntins measure 3/4" wide x 1-3/8" thick. The overall size of my window is 18" x 24". The rails and stiles measure 2-1/4" wide x 1-3/8" thick. The first step to making a window is to determine the outside dimension of the sash and cut the rails and stiles to size. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |